Prehistoric Pebble Nest: Free Chunky Crochet Dino Basket Pattern
Round 4: [Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (24 sc)
Round 5: [Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (30 sc)
Round 6: [Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (36 sc)
Round 7: [Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (42 sc)
Round 8: [Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (48 sc)
Round 9: [Sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (54 sc)
Round 10: [Sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (60 sc)
Your base should now measure about 8 inches across. Do not fasten off.
Sides
Round 11: Working in the back loop only (BLO) of each stitch, sc in each st around. This creates a crisp fold line where the base turns into the sides. (60 sc)
Round 12: Sc in each st around. (60 sc)
Round 13: Sc in each st around. (60 sc)
Round 14: Sc in each st around. (60 sc)
Round 15: Sc in each st around. (60 sc)
Round 16: Sc in each st around. (60 sc)
Round 17: Sc in each st around. (60 sc)
Round 18: Sc in each st around. (60 sc)
Round 19: Sc in each st around. (60 sc)
Round 20: Sc in each st around. (60 sc)
Round 21: Sc in each st around. (60 sc)
Round 22: Sc in each st around. (60 sc)
Round 23: Sc in each st around. (60 sc)
Round 24: Sc in each st around. (60 sc)
Round 25: Sc in each st around. (60 sc)
Round 26: Sc in each st around. (60 sc)
Round 27: Sc in each st around. (60 sc)
Round 28: Sc in each st around. (60 sc)
Round 29: Sc in each st around. (60 sc)
Round 30: Sc in each st around. (60 sc)
At the end of Round 30, sl st into the next stitch and fasten off. Weave in the ends.
Belly Patch (make 1 in cream)
The belly patch is worked flat in rows, turning at the end of each row.
Row 1: Ch 7, then sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (6 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in last st. (8 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (8 sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in last st. (10 sc)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (10 sc)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in last st. (12 sc)
Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (12 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Pin the belly patch to the front of the basket, centered and starting about 1 inch above the base, then sew it in place with the tapestry needle.
Spikes (make 5 in mustard)
Each spike is a tiny stuffed cone worked in continuous rounds.
Round 1: Make a magic ring, work 4 sc into the ring. (4 sc)
Round 2: [Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] twice. (6 sc)
Round 3: Sc in each st around. (6 sc)
Round 4: [Sc in next st, sc2tog] twice. (4 sc)
Stuff lightly with polyester fiberfill.
Round 5: Sc2tog twice. (2 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Repeat these 5 rounds to make 5 spikes in total. Sew the spikes along the back of the basket in a row from the top edge down toward the base, spacing them evenly.
Tail (make 1 in mustard)
The tail is worked flat in rows and tapers to a point.
Row 1: Ch 5, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (4 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts. (3 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (3 sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next st. (2 sc)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog. (1 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Sew the tail to the back of the basket at the base, pointing outward.
Assembly and Finishing
Sewing on the belly patch: Thread the long cream tail onto your tapestry needle. Hold the patch against the front of the basket, centered and about 1 inch above the base. Take small stitches around the entire edge, going through the patch and into the basket wall, working all the way around. Keep your stitches close together so the edge lies flat. Finish on the inside of the basket and weave the tail into the inside wall.
Sewing on the spikes: Thread a mustard tail onto the needle. Position the first spike at the top back edge of the basket, then space the remaining four evenly down the back toward the base. For each spike, sew around its base with small stitches, going through the spike and the basket wall, then push the tail through to the inside of the basket.
Sewing on the tail: Thread the mustard tail onto the needle. Hold the wide end of the tail against the lower back of the basket, pointing outward. Sew around the wide end with small stitches, then push the tail through to the inside.
Weaving in ends: Thread each remaining yarn tail onto the tapestry needle and run it through the inside of the basket for about 2 inches, passing in and out of the stitches. Trim the yarn close to the fabric. Do not knot — weaving in is more secure and invisible.
Blocking: Lightly steam the sides of the basket with a steam iron held a few inches away — never press the iron directly onto chenille yarn, as it can crush the fluff. Gently shape the basket with your hands while it is warm and let it cool and dry completely. This helps the sides stand upright.
Pro Tips and Variations
- Change the colors: Swap the sage green for a bright blue or a soft pink, use white for the belly, and pick a contrasting spike color like orange or teal. You can also work the last two side rounds in a contrast color for a striped rim.
- Make it taller or shorter: To change the height, simply add or remove plain single crochet rounds in the Sides section. Each extra round adds about half an inch. The stitch count stays at 60 sc per round, so no other math changes.
- Make it wider: Continue the base increase pattern one more round — [sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st]Also Check Out: We think you'd love this beautiful pattern on our sister site: Aurora Borealis Mittens Free Pattern
