Free Pattern: Two-Button Moss Stitch Henley Night Set

A Cozy Set for Your Very First Project

Welcome! If you have never held knitting needles before, you are in exactly the right place. This two-button moss stitch henley night set is a soft, relaxed lounge set made from an undyed linen-cotton blend, and it is designed to be gentle on brand-new knitters. The moss stitch creates a beautiful pebbled texture that looks complicated but is made from only two simple rows, and the natural oatmeal color hides small imperfections beautifully. When finished, you will have a boxy, straight henley top with a sweet two-button placket and a pair of straight, cropped pants with a comfortable ribbed waistband. The fabric feels cool, breathable, and slightly crisp at first, then softens with every wear and wash — perfect for chilly autumn evenings at the cabin.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Linen blend yarn (50% linen, 50% cotton), DK weight (also called light worsted, about 3 on the yarn label). You need approximately 800–900 yards total for size S/M (roughly 400–450 yards for the top and 400–450 yards for the pants).
• Knitting needles: US 6 (4.0 mm) circular needle, 24 inches long, for the body and pants.
• Double-pointed needles (optional): US 6 (4.0 mm) for working small sleeve sections in the round if you prefer — you can also knit sleeves flat and seam them, as written.
• Stitch holders: 2 or more (or spare circular needles) to hold stitches for the neck and legs.
• Stitch markers: at least 4, to mark the beginning of rounds and the crotch join.
• Two 5/8-inch buttons for the henley placket.
• Tapestry needle (a large, blunt sewing needle with a big eye) for seaming and weaving in ends.
• Scissors for cutting yarn.
• Finished sizes: Instructions are written for sizes S (M, L). Finished top chest measures approximately 38 (42, 46) inches around; top length is about 19 (20, 21) inches. Pants are cropped, with an inseam of about 18 (18.5, 19) inches and a relaxed straight leg.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

• st / sts – stitch / stitches (one loop on your needle is one stitch).
• K – knit stitch (insert the right needle into the front of the stitch, wrap yarn around, pull a loop through, slide the old stitch off).
• P – purl stitch (insert the right needle into the front of the stitch from right to left, wrap yarn around, pull a loop through to the back, slide the old stitch off).
• RS – right side (the front, outward-facing side of your work).
• WS – wrong side (the back, inside-facing side of your work).
• beg – beginning.
• rep – repeat (do the same instruction again).
• inc – increase (add one stitch; here, knit into the front and back of the same stitch).
• dec – decrease (remove one stitch; here, knit two stitches together).
• k2tog – knit two stitches together (a decrease that leans right).
• yo – yarn over (wrap the yarn over the right needle to create a small hole — this makes a buttonhole).
• k1, p1 ribbing – alternating one knit and one purl stitch, which makes a stretchy, ridged fabric.
• moss stitch – a two-row textured pattern of alternating knits and purls (full instructions below).
• bind off – the way to finish an edge so stitches do not unravel (knit two stitches, lift the first over the second, and repeat).
• pick up and knit – insert your needle into the edge of the fabric and knit new stitches along it.
• work even – keep knitting the pattern without increasing or decreasing.
• in the round – knitting in a continuous spiral on a circular needle so there are no seams.

Gauge

20 stitches and 28 rows = 4 inches in moss stitch on US 6 (4.0 mm) needles.

Gauge means how many stitches and rows fit into a square of fabric. It matters because it decides whether your finished garment actually fits you — if your stitches are too big, the top will be baggy; too small, and it will not close. To check: cast on about 30 stitches, work in moss stitch for about 5 inches, then lay the swatch flat and count how many stitches fit across 4 inches and how many rows fit in 4 inches. If you have more stitches than 20, go up one needle size; if fewer, go down one size. Always wash and dry your swatch the way you plan to wash the finished set, because linen blend can relax.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Use stitch markers. Place one at the beginning of every round and one on each side of the pants crotch join so you never lose your place.
• Do not pull your yarn too tight. Keep your tension relaxed and even; tight stitches make it very hard to insert your needle on the next row.
• Count your stitches at the end of every row. The stitch count in parentheses tells you exactly how many you should have.
• Read the whole row before you knit it. Some rows ask you to shape the armhole and the placket at the same time.
• Slip the first stitch of every row purlwise if you like a tidy edge for seaming — it makes sewing up much easier.
• Take breaks. Linen blend yarn can feel stiff on the hands at first; it softens as you work.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Moss Stitch Pattern (Multiple of 2 sts + 1)

Row 1 (RS): K1, *P1, K1; rep from * to end.
Row 2: P1, *K1, P1; rep from * to end.
Repeat Rows 1–2 for pattern.

Top – Back Panel

Cast on 81 (89, 97) sts.
Work in moss stitch until the piece measures 12 (12.5, 13) inches from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row. (81 (89, 97) sts)

Shape Armholes:
Next 2 rows: Bind off 4 (5, 6) sts at the beginning of each row. (73 (79, 85) sts)
Dec row (RS): K2tog at each side, every RS row 3 (4, 5) times. (67 (71, 75) sts)
Work even until the armhole measures 7 (7.5, 8) inches, ending with a WS row. (67 (71, 75) sts)

Shape Shoulders:
Next 4 rows: Bind off 6 (7, 8) sts at the beginning of each row. (43 (43, 43) sts)
Next 2 rows: Bind off 5 (6, 7) sts at the beginning of each row. (33 (31, 29) sts)
Place the remaining 33 (33, 33) sts on a holder for the back neck.

Top – Front Panel

Cast on 81 (89, 97) sts.
Work in moss stitch until the piece measures 12 (12.5, 13) inches from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row. (81 (89, 97) sts)

Shape Armholes and Placket:
Next 2 rows: Bind off 4 (5, 6) sts at the beginning of each row. (73 (79, 85) sts)
Dec row (RS): K2tog at each side, every RS row 3 (4, 5) times. (67 (71, 75) sts)
AT THE SAME TIME, when the armhole measures 1 inch, divide for the placket: work 33 (35, 37) sts, place the center 1 st on a holder, work the remaining 33 (35, 37) sts. Continue working both sides separately.

Left Front Placket:
Work even until the armhole measures 5 (5.5, 6) inches, ending with a RS row. (33 (35, 37) sts)

Shape Neck:
Next row (WS): Bind off 5 sts at the neck edge. (28 (30, 32) sts)
Next row: Bind off 3 sts at the neck edge. (25 (27, 29) sts)
Next row: Bind off 2 sts at the neck edge. (23 (25, 27) sts)
Dec row: Dec 1 st at the neck edge every RS row 3 times. (20 (22, 24) sts)
Work even until the armhole measures 7 (7.5, 8) inches, ending with a WS row. (20 (22, 24) sts)
Next 2 RS rows: Bind off 6 (7, 8) sts at the beginning of each row. (8 (8, 8) sts)
Next RS row: Bind off 5 (6, 7) sts. (3 (2, 1) sts) — fasten off.

Right Front Placket:
Work to match the left, reversing all shaping (bind off and decrease at the opposite edge). Make buttonholes on the right placket: when the armhole measures 2 inches, work a buttonhole (k2tog, yo) 1 inch from the neck edge. Make the second buttonhole 2 inches above the first.

Sleeves (Make 2)

Cast on 41 (45, 49) sts.
Work in moss stitch, inc 1 st at each side every 8th row 6 (7, 8) times. (53 (59, 65) sts)
Work even until the sleeve measures 12 (12.5, 13) inches from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row. (53 (59, 65) sts)

Shape Sleeve Cap:
Next 2 rows: Bind off 4 (5, 6) sts at the beginning of each row. (45 (49, 53) sts)
Dec row: Dec 1 st at each side every RS row 12 (14, 16) times. (21 (21, 21) sts)
Next 4 rows: Bind off 3 sts at the beginning of each row. (9 (9, 9) sts)
Bind off the remaining 9 sts.

Neckband

With RS facing, pick up and knit 33 sts from the back neck holder, 15 sts from the right front neck, 15 sts from the left front neck, and 1 st from the center holder. (64 sts)
Work in moss stitch for 1 inch. Bind off loosely in pattern.

Pants – Leg (Make 2)

Cast on 61 (65, 69) sts.
Work in moss stitch until the leg measures 18 (18.5, 19) inches from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row. (61 (65, 69) sts)

Shape Crotch:
Next 2 rows: Bind off 3 (4, 5) sts at the beginning of each row. (55 (57, 59) sts)
Place the stitches on a holder.

Pants – Joining Legs

Transfer both legs to the circular needle, casting on 6 (8, 10) sts between the legs for the crotch. (116 (122, 128) sts)
Join in the round and work in moss stitch in rounds:
Round 1: K1, *P1, K1; rep from * to end.
Round 2: P1, *K1, P1; rep from * to end.
Repeat Rounds 1–2 until the pants measure 10 (10.5, 11) inches from the crotch join. (116 (122, 128) sts)

Waistband:
Work in k1, p1 ribbing for 2 inches. Bind off loosely in ribbing.

Assembly and Finishing

Top: Sew the shoulder seams with the tapestry needle and a length of yarn, matching stitch for stitch. Sew the sleeves into the armholes, easing the cap into the opening. Sew the side seams and the sleeve seams. Sew the buttons to the left placket opposite the buttonholes.

Pants: Sew the leg seams from the cast-on edge up to the crotch. Weave in all ends by threading each tail onto the tapestry needle and running it through the back of several stitches, then trimming close.

Blocking: Soak the finished pieces in cool water for 15 minutes, gently squeeze out the water (do not wring), roll in a towel, then lay flat and pat to the measurements above. Let dry completely — this relaxes the linen and evens out the moss stitch texture.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the color: This set looks lovely in any solid DK yarn. Try a soft sage or dusty rose for a different cabin mood.
• Adjust the size: To make the top wider, add 8 stitches (4 inches) to the cast-on and work the same shaping; the moss stitch multiple of 2 + 1 stays correct.
• Substitute yarn: A cotton-bamboo or soft acrylic DK works well — just check your gauge again, since every yarn behaves differently.
• Make it warmer: Add 2 inches to the sleeve and leg lengths before the shaping for a cozier, full-length set.