Free Pattern: Vintage 1970s Crochet Donut Pillow with Ice-Blue Leaf Appliqués

Free Pattern: Vintage 1970s Crochet Donut Pillow with Ice-Blue Leaf Appliqués

Introduction

If you have ever wanted to make something that looks like it stepped straight out of a cozy 1970s living room, this plump crochet donut pillow is the perfect first big project for you. It is made almost entirely from one simple stitch — single crochet — worked in a spiral, so you never have to learn anything complicated to get a gorgeous result. The finished pillow is a soft, fuzzy cream ring about 12 inches across, topped with a shimmering silver "glaze" circle and three little ice-blue leaves with a curly tendril, all in squishy chunky chenille yarn. It feels like a hug and looks like a handmade heirloom, and because it is a pillow, small imperfections disappear into the fluff. This project is ideal for a confident beginner who has practiced a few basic stitches and is ready to make something they will actually want to display.

Materials Needed

• Yarn (chunky chenille, approx. 250–300 yds / 230–275 m per 100 g skein):
  • 1 skein warm cream (Color A) for the donut ring
  • 1 skein metallic silver (Color B) for the glaze
  • Small amounts of ice blue (Color C) for the leaves and tendril
• Note on substitutions: The original concept lists sport-weight cotton. For the plush chunky look shown, use chunky chenille as written, or hold 3 strands of sport-weight cotton together to match gauge.
• Crochet hook: 6.0 mm (US J-10) for the donut and glaze; 4.0 mm (US G-6) for the leaf and tendril appliqués
• Stitch marker (at least one, to mark the first stitch of each round)
• Tapestry needle (a large-eye, blunt-tip needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends)
• Scissors
• Polyester fiberfill (stuffing — about a generous handful or two, enough to fill the ring firmly)
• Finished size: Donut approx. 12 in (30 cm) outer diameter, 4.5 in (11.5 cm) tall, with a 4 in (10 cm) center hole. Glaze circle approx. 7 in (18 cm) across. Each leaf approx. 2.5 in (6.5 cm) long.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

Every abbreviation used in this pattern is explained below in plain English. Read through this list once before you begin — you do not need to memorize it.

• ch – chain: wrap the yarn over your hook and pull it through the loop already on your hook. This makes a small linked loop.
• sc – single crochet: insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over again, pull through both loops. One loop remains.
• sl st – slip stitch: insert hook into the stitch, yarn over, and pull through both the stitch and the loop on your hook at once. Used to join or move without adding height.
• inc – increase: work 2 single crochet stitches into the same stitch. This adds one stitch.
• dec – decrease (single crochet 2 together): insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop; insert hook into the following stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook); yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. This removes one stitch.
• st / sts – stitch / stitches: the individual loops you work into.
• rnd – round: one complete circle of stitches worked in the round (in a spiral).
• row – row: one line of stitches worked flat, back and forth.
• [ ] – repeat section: the instructions inside the brackets are repeated the number of times stated after them.
• magic ring – an adjustable loop: make a loop of yarn, work your stitches into it, then pull the tail to close the center hole tightly.
• turn – flip your work over so you can work back across the row you just made.
• fasten off – cut the yarn, pull the tail through the last loop, and tighten to secure.
• whipstitch – a simple sewing stitch: pass the needle over the edge of both pieces and back through, over and over, to join them.

Gauge

Gauge: 10 sc x 11 rounds = 4 in (10 cm) in single crochet worked in the round, with the 6.0 mm (J-10) hook and chunky chenille yarn.

Gauge means how many stitches and rounds fit into a set measurement. It matters because it controls the finished size: if your stitches are looser or tighter than the pattern, your donut will come out bigger or smaller than 12 inches. Gauge is not critical for a pillow (it will still be a lovely pillow!), but matching it keeps the proportions right.

How to make a gauge swatch: With your 6.0 mm hook and cream yarn, make a magic ring, work 6 sc into it, then increase evenly each round for 4 rounds (following Rounds 1–4 of the donut ring below). Lay the swatch flat and measure across the center. Count how many stitches fit in 4 inches (10 cm) and how many rounds fit in 4 inches. If you have more stitches than 10, your tension is tight — try a larger hook. If you have fewer, your tension is loose — try a smaller hook.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Use a stitch marker every round. Because the donut is worked in a continuous spiral, there is no seam to tell you where a round begins. Place a marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you go.
• Do not pull your yarn too tight. Chenille yarn is fluffy and can snap or shed if you yank it. Keep your tension relaxed and even — the fluff hides small differences.
• Count your stitches at the end of every round. The number in parentheses tells you exactly how many stitches you should have. If you are off, fix it before moving on.
• Stuff as you go. The donut ring gets narrow near the end, so stuff it firmly and evenly before the opening gets too small (the pattern tells you exactly when).
• Keep your appliqués flat. When working the glaze and leaves, do not let the edges curl — give them a gentle tug after each row.
• Pin before you sew. Pin the glaze and leaves in place first, step back to check the look, then sew. It is much easier to move a pin than a seam.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Part 1: Donut Ring (make 1, in Color A, with 6.0 mm hook)

Worked in a continuous spiral; do not join rounds. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round.

• Round 1: Make a magic ring, work 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
• Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
• Round 3: [Sc in next st, inc] around. (18 sts)
• Round 4: [Sc in next 2 sts, inc] around. (24 sts)
• Round 5: [Sc in next 3 sts, inc] around. (30 sts)
• Round 6: [Sc in next 4 sts, inc] around. (36 sts)
• Round 7: [Sc in next 5 sts, inc] around. (42 sts)
• Round 8: [Sc in next 6 sts, inc] around. (48 sts)
• Rounds 9–12: Sc in each st around. (48 sts)
• Round 13: [Sc in next 6 sts, dec] around. (42 sts)
• Round 14: [Sc in next 5 sts, dec] around. (36 sts)
• Round 15: [Sc in next 4 sts, dec] around. (30 sts)
• Round 16: [Sc in next 3 sts, dec] around. (24 sts)
• Round 17: [Sc in next 2 sts, dec] around. (18 sts)
• Round 18: [Sc in next st, dec] around. (12 sts)

Now stuff the ring firmly and evenly with fiberfill, working the stuffing around the tube so the donut stays round. Do this before the next round, while the opening is still big enough.

• Round 19: Dec around. (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a 10-in (25 cm) tail. Thread the tail onto your tapestry needle, pass it through the front loop of each of the last 6 stitches, and pull tight to close the hole. Weave in the end. Shape the stuffed ring into an even donut with your hands.

Part 2: Glaze Circle (make 1, in Color B, with 6.0 mm hook)

Worked flat in turned rows, then sewn onto the donut front.

• Row 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into the second ch from hook. (6 sts)
• Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Inc in each st across. (12 sts)
• Row 3: Ch 1, turn. [Sc in next st, inc] across. (18 sts)
• Row 4: Ch 1, turn. [Sc in next 2 sts, inc] across. (24 sts)
• Row 5: Ch 1, turn. [Sc in next 3 sts, inc] across. (30 sts)
• Row 6: Ch 1, turn. [Sc in next 4 sts, inc] across. (36 sts)
• Row 7: Ch 1, turn. [Sc in next 5 sts, inc] across. (42 sts)
• Row 8: Ch 1, turn. [Sc in next 6 sts, inc] across. (48 sts)
• Row 9: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (48 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long 24-in (60 cm) tail for sewing. The glaze circle should measure about 7 in (18 cm) across. Pin it centered on the front of the donut ring, letting it cover the inner hole edge slightly, and whipstitch it in place with the silver tail, easing the circle flat as you sew. Weave in the end.

Part 3: Leaves (make 3, in Color C, with 4.0 mm hook)

Worked flat in turned rows.

• Row 1: Ch 2, work 3 sc into the second ch from hook. (3 sts)
• Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Inc in each st across. (6 sts)
• Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (6 sts)
• Row 4: Ch 1, turn. [Sc in next st, inc] across. (9 sts)
• Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (9 sts)
• Row 6: Ch 1, turn. [Sc in next 2 sts, inc] across. (12 sts)
• Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (12 sts)
• Row 8: Ch 1, turn. [Sc in next 2 sts, dec] across. (9 sts)
• Row 9: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (9 sts)
• Row 10: Ch 1, turn. [Sc in next st, dec] across. (6 sts)
• Row 11: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (6 sts)
• Row 12: Ch 1, turn. Dec across. (3 sts)
• Row 13: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (3 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a 10-in (25 cm) tail. Each leaf measures about 2.5 in (6.5 cm) long. Sew the three leaves to the silver glaze with the tails, fanning them out like fall foliage and spacing them evenly around the upper half of the glaze. Weave in ends.

Part 4: Tendril (make 1, in Color C, with 4.0 mm hook)

• Row 1: Ch 22. Work 2 sc in the second ch from hook, then 2 sc in each ch across to the end, creating a natural curl.

Fasten off, leaving a 6-in (15 cm) tail. Pin the tendril in a loose spiral between the leaves on the glaze and sew it in place with the tail. Weave in the end.

Assembly and Finishing

Seaming the glaze: Thread the long silver tail onto your tapestry needle. Starting at the top center of the donut front, bring the needle up through the edge of the glaze and down through the donut, making small, even whipstitches all the way around. Work slowly and smooth the glaze flat with your fingers every few stitches so it does not pucker. When you return to the start, take one extra stitch to secure, then weave the tail into the donut body and trim.

Sewing the leaves and tendril: Pin all three leaves in a fan across the upper half of the glaze, then pin the tendril in a loose spiral between them. Using the yarn tails and your tapestry needle, take several small stitches through the center of each leaf and the length of the tendril, catching only the surface of the glaze so the stitches do not show on the front. Remove the pins and weave in all remaining ends by threading each tail onto the needle, passing it back and forth through the inside of the work a few times, and trimming close.

Fluffing and blocking: Use the tapestry needle or your fingers to tuck any loose fiberfill back inside the donut. Gently steam the appliqués (hold a steam iron an inch or two above the surface — never press it down on chenille) to help the leaves and glaze lie flat. Let the pillow air-dry completely, then reshape the ring with your hands. Your finished pillow measures about 12 in (30 cm) across and 4.5 in (11.5 cm) tall.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the colorway: Swap the ice-blue leaves for rust, mustard, or olive for a classic autumn look, or make the glaze chocolate brown for a "chocolate donut" version. Any chunky chenille in the same weight will work.
• Adjust the size: To make a smaller donut, stop the increase rounds earlier (for example, end at Round 6 for a 36-stitch ring) and skip the matching decrease rounds at the end. To make it larger, add one more increase round before the straight rounds and one more decrease round after. Keep the number of straight rounds the same so the pillow stays plump.
• Substitute yarn: If you cannot find chenille, hold 3 strands of sport-weight cotton together to match the chunky gauge, or use a single strand of bulky (weight 5) yarn — always check your gauge swatch first.
• Add a hanging loop: Before closing the final round of the donut, chain 12 and slip stitch back into the ring to create a loop, then continue closing. This lets you hang the pillow on a wall or doorknob.