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Free Pattern: Warm Hearth Knit Bobble Cuffs for Cozy Evenings

KnittingLoop | Yarn & Stitch Creations • October 23, 2026
Free Pattern: Warm Hearth Knit Bobble Cuffs for Cozy Evenings

Warm Hearth Knit Bobble Cuffs: A Cozy First Project

If you have never picked up knitting needles before, these Warm Hearth Bobble Cuffs are the perfect place to begin. They are small, straight tubes worked in the round, so there is no shaping, no complicated counting, and no sewing pieces together at the end. The finished cuffs are wide, soft, and squishy, made from DK merino wool in a deep plum purple, and they are covered in six rows of chunky round bobbles that look like stacked pumpkin ridges. A mauve ribbed band at the bottom finishes each cuff with a snug, stretchy edge. Slip them on while you sip tea on a chilly evening and you will feel instantly wrapped in warmth. This pattern is written for the advanced beginner, which means you only need to know how to knit, purl, and make a bobble, and we explain every one of those steps below.

Materials Needed

  • Yarn: DK weight merino wool (approximately 100–120 yd / 92–110 m per 50 g skein). You will need 2 skeins in Plum (main color, MC) and 1 skein in Mauve (contrast color, CC) to make a pair. The pair uses about 90 yd (82 m) of Plum and 20 yd (18 m) of Mauve.
  • Needles: US 6 (4.0 mm) double-pointed needles (DPNs) or a 9-inch circular needle for working in the round.
  • Extra needle: A cable needle or a spare DPN for holding bobble stitches.
  • Stitch marker: One, to mark the beginning of the round.
  • Tapestry needle: A large blunt needle for weaving in yarn ends.
  • Scissors: Any sharp pair for cutting yarn.
  • Finished size: Each cuff measures 7 inches (18 cm) in circumference (unstretched) and 6 inches (15 cm) tall. This fits a wrist circumference of 6–8 inches (15–20 cm).

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

  • k – knit. Insert the right needle into the front of the stitch from left to right, wrap the yarn around the needle, and pull the loop through to the front. The old stitch slides off.
  • p – purl. Insert the right needle into the front of the stitch from right to left, wrap the yarn around the needle, and pull the loop through to the back. The old stitch slides off.
  • st(s) – stitch or stitches. One loop of yarn on your needle.
  • rnd(s) – round or rounds. One complete circle of knitting when you work in the round.
  • MC – main color. The Plum yarn used for most of the cuff.
  • CC – contrast color. The Mauve yarn used for the ribbed band.
  • BOB – bobble. A small round bump made by working several stitches into one stitch, then closing them together. Full instructions are in the Stitch Guide below.
  • k2, p2 ribbing – a pattern of two knit stitches followed by two purl stitches, repeated all the way around. It makes a stretchy band.
  • cast on – the very first step, where you create the starting loops on your needle.
  • bind off – the last step, where you close the live stitches so they cannot unravel.
  • long-tail cast-on – a common stretchy way to cast on. You make a slip knot, hold the yarn in a sling shape, and dip the needle through to create each loop.
  • work in the round – knitting in a continuous spiral so the piece becomes a tube with no seam.

Gauge

22 sts and 30 rnds = 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on US 6 needles.

Gauge means how many stitches and rounds fit into a square of knitting. It matters because it controls the finished size. If your stitches are too big, the cuff will be loose; if they are too small, it will be tight. To check your gauge, cast on about 30 stitches, knit a flat square of about 4 inches, and lay it flat without stretching. Count the stitches across 4 inches and the rows up 4 inches. If you have more than 22 stitches, go up one needle size. If you have fewer, go down one needle size. Always check gauge before you begin.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

  • Use a stitch marker. Place it on the needle at the beginning of the round so you always know where each round starts and ends.
  • Do not pull the yarn too tight. Keep your tension relaxed and even. Tight stitches make bobbles hard to work and make the cuff stiff.
  • Count your stitches after every bobble round. Each bobble uses up several stitches and returns to one, so a quick count keeps you on track. You should always have 40 stitches.
  • Watch for twisting when you join. Before you knit the first round, make sure all cast-on stitches lie flat and are not spiraled around the needle.
  • Make a practice bobble first. Work one bobble on a scrap of yarn before starting the cuff so your hands learn the motion.
  • Keep the mauve yarn nearby. You will change colors only once, at the transition round near the end, so set the CC skein beside you.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Stitch Guide: The Bobble (BOB)

Step 1: Knit into the front, back, front, back, and front of the same stitch. You now have 5 stitches on your needle where there was 1.

Step 2: Turn your work around. Purl 5 stitches.

Step 3: Turn. Knit 5 stitches.

Step 4: Turn. Purl 5 stitches.

Step 5: Turn. Knit 5 stitches.

Step 6: With the left needle, lift the second, third, fourth, and fifth stitches over the first stitch and off the needle. One stitch remains. Your bobble is complete.

Cuff (make 2)

With Plum (MC), cast on 40 sts using the long-tail cast-on. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches. Place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round.

Rounds 1–4: Knit all stitches. (40 sts)

Round 5 (bobble round): *K1, BOB, k1; repeat from * to end of round. (40 sts)

Rounds 6–9: Knit all stitches. (40 sts)

Round 10 (bobble round): *K1, BOB, k1; repeat from * to end of round. (40 sts)

Repeat Rounds 6–10 four more times. This adds four more bobble rounds, for a total of six bobble rounds, each separated by four plain knit rounds. You end on a bobble round. (40 sts)

Rounds 6–9 once more: Knit all stitches. (40 sts)

Your cuff now has six stacked bobble ridges and measures about 5 inches (13 cm) tall.

Ribbing

Transition Round: Change to Mauve (CC). Knit all stitches. (40 sts)

Rounds 1–6: *K2, p2; repeat from * to end of round. (40 sts)

Bind off all stitches in pattern (knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches) using a stretchy bind-off or a needle one size larger. Cut the yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail.

Assembly and Finishing

Weave in ends. Thread each yarn tail onto your tapestry needle. Turn the cuff inside out and pass the needle through the back of several stitches, then back through a few more in the opposite direction to lock it. Trim the yarn close to the fabric.

Block the cuffs. Mist each cuff lightly with cool water and smooth it flat on a towel. Do not press or iron the bobbles, because heat and weight flatten them. Let the cuffs dry completely, away from direct sun.

Check the fit. Slip a cuff over your wrist. The ribbed band should hug gently and the bobbles should sit flat against your arm. If the cuff feels tight, block it again and stretch it gently to 7 inches wide while damp.

Pro Tips and Variations

  • Change the colors. Try a rust or mustard main color with a cream ribbing for an autumn look, or keep the plum and swap the mauve band for charcoal.
  • Adjust the size. For a smaller wrist, cast on 36 sts and work the same rounds; for a larger wrist, cast on 44 sts. Keep the bobble rounds spaced the same way.
  • Substitute the yarn. Any DK weight wool or wool blend will work. Avoid slippery acrylics, which make bobbles droop, and always check your gauge again with a new yarn.
  • Add more ridges. For a taller cuff, repeat Rounds 6–10 two extra times before the transition round. Each extra repeat adds about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of height.

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