Little Lamb Cloud Nest: Free Newborn Hat and Cocoon Crochet Pattern

Introduction

If you have never held a crochet hook before, this is the perfect place to begin. The Little Lamb Cloud Nest is a cloud-soft newborn cocoon and matching hat set worked in thick, plush bulky yarn, and it uses only two basic stitches: single crochet and half double crochet. Because the yarn is thick and the stitches are big, you will see your progress grow quickly, which makes this an encouraging first project. The finished cocoon is a gently tapered sack, wider at the bottom and narrowing toward the top opening, with a soft ribbed texture that looks and feels like a fluffy little cloud. The matching hat is a rounded beanie with two sweet ear flaps and an optional soft grey pom-pom, and together the set makes a cozy, photo-ready gift for a baby shower or a brand-new arrival.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Bulky (weight 5) plush yarn, approximately 300 yards total. Suggested: Bernat Baby Blanket or a similar chenille-style yarn in Cream (2 skeins) and a small amount of Soft Grey for the pom-pom accent.
• Cocoon hook: I/9 (5.5 mm) crochet hook.
• Hat hook: H/8 (5.0 mm) crochet hook.
• Stitch markers: At least 2, to mark the first stitch of each round and to mark ear flap placement.
• Tapestry needle: A large-eye blunt needle for weaving in ends and closing the cocoon top.
• Scissors: Sharp craft scissors for cutting yarn.
• Optional: A small pom-pom maker or a fork for making the Soft Grey pom-pom.
• Finished size: Cocoon approximately 20 inches long and 12 inches wide at the bottom, tapering to about 6 inches across the top opening. Hat fits a newborn head of approximately 12–14 inches circumference.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

• ch – chain. Make a slip knot on your hook, wrap the yarn over the hook, and pull it through the loop on your hook. That is one chain.
• sl st – slip stitch. Insert your hook into the stitch, wrap the yarn over the hook, and pull it through both the stitch and the loop on your hook at the same time. It joins stitches without adding height.
• sc – single crochet. Insert your hook into the stitch, wrap the yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), wrap the yarn over again and pull through both loops. One loop remains.
• hdc – half double crochet. Wrap the yarn over your hook first, insert the hook into the stitch, wrap the yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), wrap the yarn over again and pull through all 3 loops at once.
• sc2tog – single crochet two stitches together (a decrease). Insert your hook into the first stitch, wrap the yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), insert your hook into the next stitch, wrap the yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), wrap the yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. Two stitches become one.
• hdc2tog – half double crochet two stitches together (a decrease). Wrap the yarn over your hook, insert into the first stitch, wrap the yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), wrap the yarn over, insert into the next stitch, wrap the yarn over and pull up a loop (5 loops on hook), wrap the yarn over and pull through all 5 loops. Two stitches become one.
• st / sts – stitch / stitches. One completed stitch or several completed stitches.
• magic ring – an adjustable loop of yarn used to begin working in the round. You wrap the yarn into a loop, work your first stitches into the loop, then pull the tail tight to close the center hole.
• round – one complete circle of stitches worked in the round.
• row – one straight line of stitches worked back and forth.
• turn – flip your work over so you can work back in the opposite direction.
• join – connect the last stitch of a round to the first stitch with a slip stitch.
• fasten off – cut the yarn a few inches from your work and pull the tail through the last loop to secure it.
• * to * – repeat the instructions between the asterisks the number of times stated.

Gauge

Gauge: 12 stitches and 14 rows = 4 inches in half double crochet with the I/9 (5.5 mm) hook.

Gauge means how many stitches and rows fit into a 4-inch square of your fabric. It matters because it controls the finished size: if your stitches are bigger than the pattern's, the cocoon will come out too large, and if they are smaller, it will come out too small. To check your gauge, crochet a small practice square about 6 inches wide in half double crochet with your I/9 hook and Cream yarn. Lay it flat, place a ruler across the middle, and count how many stitches fit in 4 inches. Then count how many rows fit in 4 inches. If you have more than 12 stitches, your stitches are tight, so try again with a larger hook. If you have fewer than 12 stitches, your stitches are loose, so try a smaller hook. Use the hook that gives you the gauge, even if it is not the size listed.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Use a stitch marker on the first stitch of every round. Place a marker in the very first stitch you make each round so you always know where the round begins and ends. Move the marker up each round.
• Do not pull the yarn too tight. Plush bulky yarn is fluffy and wants to breathe. Keep your loops relaxed and even; tight stitches make the cocoon stiff and hard to work into.
• Count your stitches at the end of every round. The stitch count in parentheses tells you exactly how many stitches you should have. If the number is off, fix it before moving on.
• Work the magic ring loosely. A loose magic ring is much easier to pull closed at the end than a tight one.
• Keep your turning chain small. The ch 1 at the start of each round does not count as a stitch. Work your first stitch into the very first stitch, not into the chain.
• Take breaks. Bulky yarn can make your hands tired. Rest often and stretch your fingers.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Cocoon (worked from the bottom up)

Use the I/9 (5.5 mm) hook and Cream yarn for the entire cocoon.

Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 1, work 8 hdc into the ring. Join with sl st to first hdc. (8 sts)

Round 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around. Join. (16 sts)

Round 3: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st; repeat from * around. Join. (24 sts)

Round 4: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts; repeat from * around. Join. (32 sts)

Round 5: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts; repeat from * around. Join. (40 sts)

Round 6: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts; repeat from * around. Join. (48 sts)

Round 7: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts; repeat from * around. Join. (56 sts)

Round 8: Ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 6 sts; repeat from * around. Join. (64 sts)

Rounds 9–30: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join with sl st. (64 sts) This means you work 22 rounds in a row, each one exactly the same: one hdc in every stitch all the way around, then join.

Shape the top opening:

Round 31: Ch 1, hdc in first 28 sts, hdc2tog over next 2 sts, hdc in next 28 sts, hdc2tog over last 2 sts. Join. (62 sts)

Round 32: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (62 sts)

Round 33: Ch 1, hdc in first 27 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 27 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (60 sts)

Round 34: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (60 sts)

Round 35: Ch 1, hdc in first 26 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 26 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (58 sts)

Round 36: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (58 sts)

Round 37: Ch 1, hdc in first 25 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 25 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (56 sts)

Round 38: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (56 sts)

Round 39: Ch 1, hdc in first 24 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 24 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (54 sts)

Round 40: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (54 sts)

Round 41: Ch 1, hdc in first 23 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 23 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (52 sts)

Round 42: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (52 sts)

Round 43: Ch 1, hdc in first 22 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 22 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (50 sts)

Round 44: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (50 sts)

Round 45: Ch 1, hdc in first 21 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 21 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (48 sts)

Round 46: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (48 sts)

Round 47: Ch 1, hdc in first 20 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 20 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (46 sts)

Round 48: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (46 sts)

Round 49: Ch 1, hdc in first 19 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 19 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (44 sts)

Round 50: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (44 sts)

Round 51: Ch 1, hdc in first 18 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 18 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (42 sts)

Round 52: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (42 sts)

Round 53: Ch 1, hdc in first 17 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 17 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (40 sts)

Round 54: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (40 sts)

Round 55: Ch 1, hdc in first 16 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 16 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (38 sts)

Round 56: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (38 sts)

Round 57: Ch 1, hdc in first 15 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 15 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (36 sts)

Round 58: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (36 sts)

Round 59: Ch 1, hdc in first 14 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 14 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (34 sts)

Round 60: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (34 sts)

Round 61: Ch 1, hdc in first 13 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 13 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (32 sts)

Round 62: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (32 sts)

Round 63: Ch 1, hdc in first 12 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 12 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (30 sts)

Round 64: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (30 sts)

Round 65: Ch 1, hdc in first 11 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 11 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (28 sts)

Round 66: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (28 sts)

Round 67: Ch 1, hdc in first 10 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 10 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (26 sts)

Round 68: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (26 sts)

Round 69: Ch 1, hdc in first 9 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 9 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (24 sts)

Round 70: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (24 sts)

Round 71: Ch 1, hdc in first 8 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 8 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (22 sts)

Round 72: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (22 sts)

Round 73: Ch 1, hdc in first 7 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 7 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (20 sts)

Round 74: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (20 sts)

Round 75: Ch 1, hdc in first 6 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 6 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (18 sts)

Round 76: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (18 sts)

Round 77: Ch 1, hdc in first 5 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 5 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (16 sts)

Round 78: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (16 sts)

Round 79: Ch 1, hdc in first 4 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 4 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (14 sts)

Round 80: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (14 sts)

Round 81: Ch 1, hdc in first 3 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 3 sts, hdc2tog. Join. (12 sts)

Round 82: Ch 1, hdc in each st around. Join. (12 sts)

Round 83: Ch 1, hdc2tog around. Join. (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Weave the tail through the remaining 6 sts and pull tight to close.

Hat (worked from the crown down)

Use the H/8 (5.0 mm) hook and Cream yarn for the hat.

Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 1, work 8 sc into the ring. Join with sl st to first sc. (8 sts)

Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around. Join. (16 sts)

Round 3: Ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around. Join. (24 sts)

Round 4: Ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; repeat from * around. Join. (32 sts)

Round 5: Ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; repeat from * around. Join. (40 sts)

Round 6: Ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts; repeat from * around. Join. (48 sts)

Round 7: Ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts; repeat from * around. Join. (56 sts)

Round 8: Ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts; repeat from * around. Join. (64 sts)

Rounds 9–20: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with sl st. (64 sts) This means you work 12 rounds in a row, each one exactly the same: one sc in every stitch all the way around, then join.

Ear Flaps

Round 21 (ear flap row): Ch 1, sc in first 14 sts, ch 1, turn. You are now working back and forth in rows instead of in rounds.

Row 22: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (14 sts)

Row 23: Sc2tog, sc in next 10 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (12 sts)

Row 24: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (12 sts)

Row 25: Sc2tog, sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (10 sts)

Row 26: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (10 sts)

Row 27: Sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (8 sts)

Row 28: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (8 sts)

Row 29: Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (6 sts)

Row 30: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sts)

Row 31: Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (4 sts)

Row 32: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (4 sts)

Row 33: Sc2tog twice. Ch 1, turn. (2 sts)

Row 34: Sc2tog. Fasten off. (1 st)

Second ear flap: Skip 18 sts from the first ear flap, join Cream yarn with sl st in next st. Ch 1, sc in same st and next 13 sts. Repeat Rows 22–34 as for the first ear flap.

Assembly and Finishing

Weaving in ends: Thread each yarn tail onto your tapestry needle. Turn your work to the inside and weave the tail in and out through the backs of several stitches, changing direction once or twice so it cannot work loose. Trim the yarn close to the fabric.

Closing the cocoon top: The cocoon is already closed at the top by Round 83. If a small gap remains, thread the long tail onto the tapestry needle and stitch across the gap, then weave in the tail.

Attaching the pom-pom (optional): Make a small pom-pom with the Soft Grey yarn. Thread a short length of Cream yarn through the center of the pom-pom and tie it securely to the top of the hat, then weave in the ends.

Blocking: Lightly mist the finished pieces with cool water and gently pat them into shape on a clean towel. Do not wring or stretch them. Let them air-dry completely, away from direct heat. Blocking opens up the stitches and makes the plush yarn extra soft.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Color changes: Work the cocoon in Cream and add a Soft Grey band near the top opening by changing yarn at the start of a round. Carry the unused color loosely up the inside of your work.
• Size adjustments: To make the cocoon longer, add extra plain hdc rounds after Round 30 before you begin shaping. To make it wider, add one more increase round after Round 8, then work the plain rounds with the new stitch count.
• Yarn substitutions: Any bulky (weight 5) yarn will work. If you use a thinner yarn, go down a hook size and check your gauge again before starting.
• Hat variation: Leave off the ear flaps for a simple beanie, or add a small Soft Grey crocheted flower or bow to the side of the hat instead of a pom-pom.