Gold Diamond Net Crochet Gift Bag Free Pattern

Gold Diamond Net Crochet Gift Bag — Free Beginner Pattern

Introduction

This little seventies-style treasure pouch is the perfect first project for anyone who has never held a crochet hook before. It starts with a simple solid burgundy base worked in easy single crochet, then blossoms into an airy gold diamond net that looks far more complicated than it actually is. The finished bag is about 4 inches wide and 5 inches tall — just right for a pair of earrings, a few chocolates, or a tiny gift you want to make feel special. It feels soft and slightly fuzzy in the hand, with a subtle metallic shimmer in the gold mesh and a gently gathered top tied shut with a twisted yarn drawstring. Best of all, you can whip one up in a single cozy evening.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Worsted weight (category 4) acrylic or cotton yarn, approx. 60 yds total — 25 yds burgundy (Color A) and 35 yds metallic gold (Color B). The sample used a soft worsted acrylic in burgundy and a gold metallic-blend worsted.
• Hook: US H/8 (5.0 mm) crochet hook.
• Stitch marker (optional but helpful) — a small plastic clip or a scrap of contrasting yarn.
• Tapestry needle — a blunt, large-eyed needle for weaving in ends.
• Scissors — any small sharp pair.
• Safety pin (for making the drawstring) — optional.
• Finished size: Approx. 4 inches (10 cm) wide x 5 inches (12.5 cm) tall, flat, excluding the drawstring.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

Every term below is explained as if you have never crocheted before. Read through this list once before you start — it will make the pattern feel like plain English.

• ch — chain. Make a loop of yarn on your hook, then pull the yarn through the loop. Each loop you pull through is one chain.
• sc — single crochet. Insert your hook into the stitch, pull up a loop (you now have 2 loops on the hook), then pull the yarn through both loops at once. One single crochet made.
• dc — double crochet. Yarn over (wrap yarn around hook), insert hook into the stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops.
• sl st — slip stitch. Insert hook into the stitch, yarn over, and pull that loop straight through the loop on your hook. It joins or moves you along without adding height.
• sp — space. The gap or hole created by a chain. A "ch-3 sp" is the hole under a chain of 3.
• st(s) — stitch(es). One completed loop/unit in your fabric.
• ch-3 sp — chain-3 space. The open hole made by a chain of 3 stitches.
• ch-5 sp — chain-5 space. The open hole made by a chain of 5 stitches (not used in this pattern, but listed for reference).
• beg — beginning. Refers to the start of a round.
• rep — repeat. Do the instruction again.
• * ... * — the asterisks mark a section you repeat. "Rep from * around" means go back to the first asterisk and keep going all the way around the round.
• magic ring — an adjustable loop you make with the yarn tail so you can pull the center hole tight. If you prefer, you can chain 4 and join into a ring instead.
• join with sl st — finish the round by making a slip stitch into the first stitch of that round so the circle closes.
• fasten off — cut the yarn leaving a 6-inch tail, then pull the tail through the last loop to lock it.
• yarn over — wrap the working yarn over your hook from back to front.

Gauge

In solid single crochet: 16 sc x 18 rows = 4 inches (10 cm).
In the gold chain-mesh pattern: 4 mesh diamonds x 6 rows = 4 inches (10 cm).

Why gauge matters: Gauge is how many stitches and rows fit into 4 inches of your fabric. If your stitches are bigger than the pattern's, your bag will come out larger; if smaller, the bag will be smaller and the drawstring may not fit. Gauge is not critical for this bag (it will still work at almost any size), but it does affect the finished size.

How to make a gauge swatch: With Color A and your H/8 hook, chain 20. Work 20 single crochet rows. Lay the swatch flat and measure a 4-inch square in the middle. Count how many stitches across and rows tall fit in that square. If you have more than 16 stitches, try a larger hook; if fewer, try a smaller hook. Then begin the bag.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Use a stitch marker. Place it in the first stitch of each round so you always know where the round began and ends. This prevents the spiral from drifting.
• Do not pull your yarn too tight. Beginners often tug every stitch snug, which makes the mesh close up and the bag stiff. Let the gold chains stay loose and open — that is the whole point of the diamond net.
• Count your stitches at the end of every round. The numbers in parentheses tell you exactly how many you should have. If you are off by one, fix it now rather than later.
• Keep your magic ring tail long. Leave a 6-inch tail so you can pull the center hole snug at the very end and weave it in securely.
• Work the base band a little firmly, then relax for the gold. A slightly tighter base gives the bag a nice flat bottom, while a looser gold mesh lets the diamonds show.
• Don't worry about perfection. The metallic gold hides small irregularities beautifully, and the drawstring gathers the top so any wobbles disappear.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Notes: The bag is worked in the round from the base upward as one continuous tube. Do not turn at the end of rounds unless told. Color A (burgundy) forms the solid base band; Color B (gold) forms the open diamond net body. The gold net is a repeating (dc, ch 3) mesh, and staggered rounds create the diamond lattice.

Base Band (Color A, burgundy)

Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 1 (does not count as a st). Work 8 sc into the ring. Join with sl st to first sc. (8 sc)

Round 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. (16 sc)

Round 3: Ch 1. *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st; rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc. (24 sc)

Round 4: Ch 1. *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts; rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc. (32 sc)

Rounds 5–7: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. (32 sc)

Fasten off Color A. The base band should measure approx. 2 inches (5 cm) across and 1.25 inches (3 cm) tall.

Gold Diamond Net Body (Color B, gold)

Join Color B with sl st in any st of Round 7.

Round 8 (set-up mesh round): Ch 4 (counts as first dc plus ch 1). *Sk next st, dc in next st, ch 1; rep from * around, ending with sk last st, join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4. (16 dc, 16 ch-1 sps)

Round 9: Sl st into first ch-1 sp. Ch 3 (counts as first dc). *Ch 3, dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * around, ending with ch 3, join with sl st to top of beg ch-3. (16 dc, 16 ch-3 sps)

Round 10: Sl st into first ch-3 sp. Ch 3 (counts as first dc). *Ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp; rep from * around, ending with ch 3, join with sl st to top of beg ch-3. (16 dc, 16 ch-3 sps)

Rounds 11–16: Rep Round 10 six more times. The staggered dc posts and ch-3 spaces form an open diamond lattice. Do not fasten off. (16 dc, 16 ch-3 sps)

Top Edging and Drawstring Channel (Color B)

Round 17: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each dc and 1 sc in each ch-3 sp around. Join with sl st to first sc. (32 sc)

Round 18: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. (32 sc)

Round 19 (eyelet round): Ch 1. *Sc in next 2 sts, ch 2, sk next 2 sts; rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc. (8 ch-2 eyelets, 16 sc)

Round 20: Ch 1. Sc in each st and 2 sc in each ch-2 sp around. Join with sl st to first sc. (32 sc)

Fasten off Color B and weave in ends.

Drawstring (Color B)

Cut 2 strands of Color B, each approx. 24 inches (60 cm) long. Holding the strands together, tie one end to a doorknob or secure it with a safety pin. Twist the strands tightly in one direction until the cord begins to double back on itself. Fold the cord in half and allow it to twist back on itself into a firm 2-ply cord. Knot both ends. Thread the cord through the Round 19 eyelets, going in and out around the bag. Knot the two ends together to form a loop, or leave them loose for tying. Trim ends evenly.

Assembly and Finishing

Weaving in ends: Thread each yarn tail onto your tapestry needle. Turn the bag inside out and run the needle through the back of several stitches (about 1 inch), then reverse direction and run through a few more. This locks the tail so it will not work loose. Trim the yarn close to the fabric.

Closing the center hole: Find the starting tail at the bottom of the bag. Pull it gently to draw the magic ring closed so there is no hole in the base, then weave it in as above.

Blocking: Gently steam the gold net with an iron held about 2 inches above the fabric (never touch the iron to acrylic — it can melt). Alternatively, spritz the bag lightly with water, shape the diamonds open and even with your fingers, and let it air-dry flat. This opens the mesh so the lattice looks crisp.

Finishing touch: Pull the drawstring to gather the top closed. Your bag is complete and ready to fill with a small gift.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the colors: Swap the burgundy for deep teal, forest green, or classic black, and try a silver or copper metallic for the net. Any two colors that contrast will make the diamonds pop.
• Adjust the size: To make a larger bag, add one more increase round to the base (Round 5 becomes *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 3 sts* = 40 sc) and work a few extra mesh rounds before the top edging. To make a tiny jewelry pouch, stop the base at Round 4 and work fewer mesh rounds.
• Substitute yarn: Cotton gives a crisper, sturdier bag; acrylic is softer and stretchier. Just check your gauge swatch so the drawstring eyelets still line up.
• Add a bead or charm: Thread a small bead onto each drawstring end before knotting for a pretty, finished look — perfect for gift-giving.