Watermelon Cabin Buddy Lovey Crochet Free Pattern: Flat Blanket with Amigurumi Head

Watermelon Cabin Buddy Lovey Crochet Free Pattern

Introduction

Welcome to the Watermelon Cabin Buddy Lovey — a sweet, huggable little blanket friend that is perfect for your very first crochet project that combines a flat blanket with a tiny stuffed head. This lovey is made for complete beginners who have learned a few basic stitches and want to make something truly special: a cozy cobalt-blue blanket with a cheerful watermelon-slice appliqué and a small round watermelon head on top. The finished piece feels soft and matte in DK cotton, measures about 13.5 inches wide by 17.5 inches long, and has a squishy 2.5-inch head that little hands love to hold. It looks like a tiny security blanket with a friendly watermelon buddy attached, and it makes a wonderful baby gift or heirloom keepsake.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: DK weight cotton yarn (approx. 125 yds / 50 g per skein).
• Color A (Cobalt): 2 skeins — used for the blanket body and border.
• Color B (Orange): 1 skein — used for the watermelon flesh and head face area.
• Color C (White): small amount — used for the rind line on the appliqué and head.
• Color D (Dark Green): small amount — used for the outer rind and head top.
• Color E (Light Green): small amount — used for the vine loop.
• Crochet hook: 3.5 mm (US E/4) for the blanket and appliqué.
• Crochet hook: 3.0 mm (US D/3) for the amigurumi head and seeds.
• Stitch markers — to mark the first stitch of each round and to hold pieces while sewing.
• Tapestry needle — a large blunt needle with an eye big enough for yarn, used for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.
• Scissors — for cutting yarn.
• Polyester fiberfill — stuffing for the amigurumi head.
• Finished size: Blanket approx. 13.5 in (34 cm) wide x 17.5 in (44.5 cm) long. Amigurumi head approx. 2.5 in (6.5 cm) diameter. Appliqué approx. 4.5 in (11.5 cm) wide x 3 in (7.5 cm) tall.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

• ch — chain: yarn over the hook, pull the loop through the loop on your hook. This makes a small loop and is how you start most projects.
• sc — single crochet: insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over again, pull through both loops. This is the shortest, most common crochet stitch.
• hdc — half double crochet: yarn over first, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops at once.
• dc — double crochet: yarn over first, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through last 2 loops.
• sl st — slip stitch: insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull the loop straight through the loop on your hook. It makes a nearly invisible joining stitch.
• st(s) — stitch(es): one completed loop or "V" shape in your fabric.
• inc — increase: work 2 single crochet stitches into the same stitch. This adds one stitch and makes the piece wider.
• dec — decrease: single crochet 2 stitches together. Insert hook into first stitch, pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. This removes one stitch and makes the piece narrower.
• FLO — front loop only: work into just the loop of the stitch closest to you.
• BLO — back loop only: work into just the loop of the stitch farthest from you.
• MR — magic ring: a loop of yarn you wrap around your fingers and crochet into, then pull tight to close the center hole. It is the standard way to start round amigurumi pieces.
• [ ] — repeat instructions: everything inside the brackets is repeated the number of times stated after the brackets.
• turn — flip your work over so you can work back across the row you just made.
• fasten off — cut the yarn a few inches from your work, pull the tail all the way through the last loop, and tug gently to lock it.

Gauge

Blanket gauge: 18 single crochet stitches x 20 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) with the 3.5 mm (E/4) hook.

Amigurumi head gauge: 22 single crochet stitches x 24 rounds = 4 inches (10 cm) with the 3.0 mm (D/3) hook.

Why gauge matters: Gauge is how many stitches and rows fit into a square of fabric. If your stitches are bigger than the pattern expects, your blanket will come out larger than 13.5 x 17.5 inches and you may run short on yarn. If your stitches are smaller, the blanket will be smaller and the head may not match the proportions. Gauge keeps everything the right size.

How to make a gauge swatch: With Color A and the 3.5 mm hook, chain 25. Work single crochet in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across (24 stitches). Work 22 rows of single crochet. Lay the swatch flat and measure a 4-inch square in the middle. Count how many stitches and rows fit inside that square. If you have more stitches than 18, your tension is tight — try a larger hook. If you have fewer, your tension is loose — try a smaller hook.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Count every row. The blanket is 80 rows of the same stitch, and it is very easy to lose track. Keep a tally on paper or use a row counter app, and place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each row.
• Do not pull your yarn too tight. Beginners often grip the yarn hard, which makes stiff, tight fabric. Let the yarn flow smoothly and keep your stitches relaxed and even.
• Use stitch markers in the amigurumi head. The head is worked in a continuous spiral with no joining, so the first stitch of each round moves. Place a marker in the first stitch of Round 1 and move it up each round so you always know where a round begins.
• Stuff the head firmly but in small pieces. Add fiberfill a little at a time and push it into the edges with the end of your hook or a pencil so the head is round and smooth, not lumpy.
• Keep your starting chain loose. If your chain of 61 is tight, the bottom edge of the blanket will pucker. Use a hook one size larger for the chain only, or chain loosely.
• Sew securely. This lovey will be hugged and washed. Use doubled thread (or the yarn tail) and sew through the blanket layers several times when attaching the head and appliqué.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Part 1: Blanket (worked flat in rows with 3.5 mm hook and Color A)

Row 1: Ch 61. Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (60 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (60 sc)

Rows 3–80: Repeat Row 2. (60 sc per row)

You now have a flat rectangle about 13.5 in (34 cm) wide and 17.5 in (44.5 cm) long. Do not fasten off yet — you will use the working yarn for the border.

Part 2: Blanket Border (3.5 mm hook, Color A)

Border round: Ch 1, turn. Sc evenly along the first side edge (approx. 80 sc), work 3 sc in the corner, sc across the bottom edge (60 sc), work 3 sc in the corner, sc evenly along the second side edge (approx. 80 sc), work 3 sc in the corner, sc across the top edge (60 sc), work 3 sc in the final corner, then join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. Fasten off and weave in ends. The 3-sc corners keep the border flat and give it a neat, rounded corner.

Part 3: Watermelon-Slice Appliqué (3.5 mm hook; make 1)

Use Color B (orange) for the flesh, Color C (white) for the rind line, and Color D (dark green) for the outer rind. The piece grows wider by one stitch at each end on every row, forming a triangle that reads as a watermelon slice.

Row 1 (B): Ch 2. Work 3 sc in the 2nd ch from hook. (3 sc)

Row 2 (B): Ch 1, turn. Inc in first st, sc in next st, inc in last st. (5 sc)

Row 3 (B): Ch 1, turn. Inc, sc in each st to last st, inc. (7 sc)

Row 4 (B): Ch 1, turn. Inc, sc in each st to last st, inc. (9 sc)

Row 5 (B): Ch 1, turn. Inc, sc in each st to last st, inc. (11 sc)

Row 6 (B): Ch 1, turn. Inc, sc in each st to last st, inc. (13 sc)

Row 7 (B): Ch 1, turn. Inc, sc in each st to last st, inc. (15 sc)

Row 8 (B): Ch 1, turn. Inc, sc in each st to last st, inc. (17 sc)

Row 9 (B): Ch 1, turn. Inc, sc in each st to last st, inc. (19 sc)

Row 10 (B): Ch 1, turn. Inc, sc in each st to last st, inc. (21 sc)

Row 11 (C): Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (21 sc)

Row 12 (D): Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (21 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Part 4: Seeds (3.0 mm hook; make 5)

With Color A or D: MR, work 4 sc into the ring, join with a sl st to the first sc. Fasten off, leaving a short tail. Sew the seeds evenly spaced across the orange flesh of the appliqué.

Part 5: Attaching the Appliqué

Center the watermelon slice on the front of the blanket, positioning it about 3 in (7.5 cm) below the top edge. Pin it in place. Using the long tail and a tapestry needle, sew around the entire perimeter of the appliqué, catching only the top layer of the blanket so the stitches do not show on the back. Weave in ends.

Part 6: Amigurumi Watermelon Head (3.0 mm hook, worked in continuous rounds)

Use Color D (dark green) for the top rind, Color C (white) for the rind line, and Color B (orange) for the face area. Do not join rounds; work in a spiral and move your stitch marker up each round.

Round 1 (D): MR, 6 sc into ring. (6 sc)

Round 2 (D): Inc in each st around. (12 sc)

Round 3 (D): [Sc in next st, inc] around. (18 sc)

Round 4 (C): [Sc in next 2 sts, inc] around. (24 sc)

Round 5 (B): [Sc in next 3 sts, inc] around. (30 sc)

Round 6 (B): [Sc in next 4 sts, inc] around. (36 sc)

Rounds 7–12 (B): Sc in each st around. (36 sc)

Round 13 (B): [Sc in next 4 sts, dec] around. (30 sc)

Round 14 (B): [Sc in next 3 sts, dec] around. (24 sc)

Round 15 (B): [Sc in next 2 sts, dec] around. (18 sc)

Stuff the head firmly with polyester fiberfill now, before the opening gets too small.

Round 16 (B): [Sc in next st, dec] around. (12 sc)

Round 17 (B): Dec around. (6 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using the tapestry needle, weave the tail through the front loops of the remaining 6 sts and pull tight to close. Weave in the end.

Part 7: Vine Loop (3.0 mm hook, Color E)

Ch 12. Sl st in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Fasten off, leaving a short tail. Sew the vine loop securely to the top center of the amigurumi head.

Part 8: Attaching the Head to the Blanket

Using the long tail from the head, sew the amigurumi head securely to the top center of the blanket, just above the watermelon-slice appliqué. Stitch through the blanket layers several times to anchor it firmly, then weave in all ends.

Assembly and Finishing

Seaming: All pieces are sewn with a tapestry needle and yarn tails. To sew, thread the tail onto the needle, bring the needle up through both layers, and take small, even stitches about 1/8 inch apart. For the appliqué, sew around the perimeter only. For the head, sew around the base of the head where it meets the blanket, going through the blanket twice at each point so it cannot pull loose.

Weaving in ends: Thread each yarn tail onto the tapestry needle and weave it back and forth through the back of the fabric for about 2 inches, changing direction once. Trim the tail close to the fabric. Never knot your ends — knots can work loose in the wash.

Blocking: Lightly steam block the blanket and appliqué if desired. Pin the blanket to a towel or blocking mat in a neat rectangle, hold a steam iron an inch above the fabric (do not press down), let the steam settle the stitches, and leave it to dry completely. This smooths the border and helps the blanket lie flat.

Final check: Gently tug the head and vine loop to make sure everything is secure. Ensure all amigurumi pieces are firmly attached before giving the lovey to a baby.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the palette: Swap Cobalt for a soft sage or dusty rose to match a nursery. Keep the orange, white, and green the same so the watermelon still reads clearly.
• Adjust the size: To make a larger blanket, add stitches in multiples of 2 to the starting chain (for example, chain 81 for a wider blanket) and add rows in pairs. Add about 1.5 inches of length for every 6 extra rows at this gauge.
• Substitute yarn: Any DK weight yarn works, but cotton gives the crispest stitch definition and is easy to wash. If you use acrylic, check your gauge again because acrylic behaves differently.
• Add a hanging loop or tag: Sew a small fabric tag or a short crocheted chain loop to one corner so the lovey can be clipped to a stroller or diaper bag.